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Skin lightening products

The colour of the skin is determined by a person’s genetic make-up, and it involves the pigment melanin. Melanin is made by special cells called melanocytes which can be found in certain layers of the skin. Melanin production is a complex process. There are two main types of melanin; that which is brown and black in colour and that which is yellow and red. The amount of melanin produced, the type of melanin formed and how it is distributed throughout the skin determines the skin’s colour. Melanin is also the pigment responsible for the colour of hair.

Some people like to lighten their natural complexion for aesthetic preferences.

Topical skin lightening or whitening products are legally classed as cosmetic products in Europe.

Several years ago the most commonly used ingredient in skin lightening products was hydroquinone. It was regulated under the European Cosmetics Directive and was only allowed for use on localised areas such as age spots, but it became apparent that it was being used on large areas of the skin instead. Because such over-use can lead to de-pigmentation (white areas of the skin) and hyper-pigmentation (darkened areas of skin) and a very uneven effect, hydroquinone was banned from use in cosmetic skin lightening products in the EU in 2000. The uneven skin colouration was effectively permanent; this and some other safety concerns led to it being banned in skin lighteners. Hydroquinone is allowed for use in other types of cosmetic products (in artificial nail systems and to help develop colour in hair colorants) which do not involve being in contact with large areas of the skin in the same way that skin lighteners are.

Years ago mercury soaps were also used to lighten the skin, but again mercury itself is banned from use in cosmetic products in the EU – and has been since 1976. In the UK it is even illegal to manufacture mercury soaps for export to other countries even if not actually banned in those countries.

There have been a number of incidences when products being sold as cosmetic skin lightening products have been found to contain hydroquinone, mercury and even steroids – which are very potent drugs that are also banned from use in cosmetics. Cosmetic skin lightening products containing these ingredients are illegal cosmetics.

There are other allowed ingredients that are used in skin lightening cosmetics. Examples of these are kojic acid and arbutin. Responsible manufacturers will be producing cosmetic products according to the strict legal requirements.

Where can I find out more?

If you want to find out about different types of ingredients in your products, visit what's in my cosmetic?

The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) is an association of manufacturers of cosmetic, toiletry and perfumery products, founded in 1945 to promote the interests of members, primarily with government. That remit has now extended to include the European Commission and many other regulatory bodies, national and international groups.

Members are manufacturers (full members), raw material suppliers and suppliers of services (associate members). Our Council is made up of senior industry representatives from small, medium, large and multi-national companies. Activities are funded through membership subscriptions.

The focus of our work centres on scientific, regulatory and legislative issues. We have a constant dialogue with the UK Government and this process is repeated at European level through COLIPA, the European trade body and internationally through an extensive network of national association contacts.

Visit the CTPA main website »

The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) is the voice of the cosmetic, toiletry and perfumery industry in the UK. Our members vary from small and medium-sized companies to large multi-nationals and include manufacturers, raw material suppliers and service providers.

Our primary goal is to promote good working practice to ensure that consumers are provided with the very best products. To this end, we co-ordinate the industry's viewpoint on key issues such as science, innovation and safety and maintain an open dialogue with government, both at UK and European level, as well as with international regulatory authorities and key opinion formers.

CTPA recognises that the consumer has a right to understand the processes that industry and the regulatory bodies go through to ensure the safety and efficacy of cosmetic and toiletry products. Over the years we have steadily increased our focus on providing the public with direct access to the industry's perspective and progress on safety, science and innovation.

In April 2008 we launched our consumer information website, www.thefactsabout.co.uk, which provides scientific facts about common ingredients used in cosmetics and the industry's perspective on common safety questions as well as information on how products are regulated to ensure safety and efficacy.

Further information on the work of the CTPA is available from our main website www.ctpa.org.uk which also houses the full set of legislation under 'Cosmetic regulations'.